Chukka Boots

First off, please forgive the absence around here lately…been mostly underground working on the Fall Collection and trying to keep up (thanks to all!) with Spring orders.  A huge project for me has been expanding Rider Boot into some additional constructions and options.  Some of my long-time clients may remember the work I did with Borgioli years ago at Franco’s, and I have always felt that the patterns I did with them on Treccia (most here would call it Norvegese construction) Construction were some of the best shoes I’ve ever done.  Well, during my trip to Italy last month I took a train down to La Stella (Tuscany) to catch up with my friends at the factory.  It didn’t take long for us to get on the same page and plan out some joint work for Rider Boot.  A few different things on the agenda that I will work thru during the next couple of months, but first up I went back to the well and did my favorite construction in a Shell Cordovan Chukka boot:

True Treccia Construction involves a tremendous amount of work, time, skill and, by default, top quality materials.  The special feature here, obviously, is the three thread interwoven stitch you can see above the weltline on the upper.  This is visually interesting, for sure….but the real magic is what you cannot see – the connection between the leather insole and the upper (in this case shell cordovan from Horween in Chicago) done in one graceful, and complicated, step.  Further, you will notice the upper is ‘turned out’, or what we call Norvegese, and stitched down with a seperate stitch thru the welt/sole combination.  I expect to be back at the factory in the next couple of weeks and will try to post a more detailed essay (with pictures) on this work from start to finish, but in the meantime……the Treccia Chukka:

Cheers –


note – I will be debuting this sample, and the entire Borgioli for Rider Boot planned range, at the May Trunk Show with Leffot in NYC.  This item will be available as a MTO style where different materials, colors, thread, sole finishing, etc. can be chosen individually.  Prices are far from being finalized at this moment, but the shell cordovan sample pictured here will be right around $2200.00.

….heading to Leffot.  Today.

This chukka is one of my favorites.  Built on the great fitting 95 last and featuring a storm welt and Sestriere soles and heels, this classic chukka will take you anywhere – and for a long time.


Should be hitting Pelle Line in Paramus, NJ this afternoon.  The first chukka done in this great, and rare, color was the RBCB3, and it is virtually sold out.  Only 6 pair were made of the original chukka boot pictured here, so don’t wait on this one!  Hamed or Soodie can help you at the shop…..


Just boxed up JGilbert Footwear’s Special Edition Hobo boots.  Turned out very, very nice.  We made the basic RBHB1 boot but used the new 100% veg tanned Reverse Calfskin from the Lo Stivale tannery in Tuscany.  Exclusive to J Gilbert and headed out to Seattle today:


Getting ready to fly is RBCB10 in Repello Baltic (Navy) Suede.  Been waiting for this number for a bit now and I get the first pair!  Fantastic with denim, the RBCB10 features highly water-resistent ‘Repello’ sueded uppers from CF Stead in the UK.  As with the existing versions of this chukka (Cola and Polo Brown), I am building this on a crepe sole but here using a natural leather midsole.  You also might note the red stitching.  Cool boot:

Built on 42 last, this chukka fits great….classic round toe with a slight ‘bump’, good room over the instep – one of the better fitters over years here.  RBCB10 in Navy will be initially available in a limited run of sizes and pairs – 8 pair total, sizes 8 1/2 to 11.  Price will be $550 and should be available by October 1.

If you would like to reserve a pair, please send a note to me at:

and I will be happy to obloge.



My friend Mark Metzger at Highcliffe Clothier, in lovely Middleburg, VA,  joins the party this September.  I delivered a range of Saphir Shoe Care products yesterday to his shop, and we will be shipping the Hobo Boot (RBHB1) in 2 colors this September. 


Welcome Mark!


coming in Fall……notice the sanded sole edges, a detail we will call ‘Vintage’.  This is the new color called ‘Rust’.  What’cha think?

Next up is RBCB8 – basically the classic chukka boot but done here in Horween’s Waterproof Chromexcel uppers on a full Crepe sole and heel.  We think this is as versatile a casual chukka as we could build.  42 last is a VERY comfortable last, and the Crepe soles give an interesting twist!


Available HERE

Next new addition to the line-up is the Hobo Boot (RBHB v.3) done here in Waterproof Chromexcel Calf from Horween Leathers in Chicago.  We have kept the details the same but added a Crepe sole – we love crepe and it really gives a heavy, sport look to what has become our trademark boot.


Buy Here……..or Here.


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